Taste of the Sea

Sometimes I sit and wonder about possible solutions to the world's overfishing problems. Even now, I picture huge trawl nets dragging along the seafloor mercilessly leveling the precious benthic habitat. Endless long-lines extend far back into my memory as I recall pictures of pelagic death in our nets and on our hooks. I think of the billions of people in the world that need food and who rely on the ocean to provide their sustenance. I think of the historic booms and crashes of seafood industries around the world, and I question whether aquaculture alone will be able to save the starving seas.

When I feel the spiraling depressive fate of the ocean accelerating into my mind's depths, I have to consciously redirect my thoughts back up to the sunlight. In order to do so, I relinquish negativity and open up to any creative ideas, however ridiculous they may sound, that may help alleviate the worldwide fishing pressures on the sea.

The long-term solution is to work towards a changed human perspective, fostering respect for the ocean. However, education and appreciation for nature often realistically fall second to economic crisis and stability. To quote Sylvia Earle, "No oceans, no us. No blue, no green." Yes. I wholeheartedly agree, but that does not change the fact that money makes the world go 'round and that it is inevitably money that will facilitate the most effective changes in the least amount of time.

With that though I want to share an article about an oyster fishery in France that is dealing with an invasive snail and fouling dilemma. The New York Times recently posted, "In France, a Quest to Convert a Sea Snail Plague into a Culinary Treasure." http://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/12/world/europe/in-france-a-quest-to-convert-a-sea-snail-plague-into-a-culinary-pleasure.html?placeId=readerchoice=smid=fb-nytimes&WT.z_sma=WO_COP_20140312&bicmp=AD&bicmlukp=WT.mc_id&bicmst=1388552400000&bicmet=1420088400000&_r=0.

The article talks about the invasive Atlantic slipper snail that was brought over to France via American ships from the eastern coast of North America. Crepidula fornicata, the common slipper snail, is know as one of the most populous fouling organisms of the coast. Though native to the eastern US, it is extremely resilient with incredible reproduction and settlement capabilities. Through my personal oyster research in Long Island Sound, I have witnessed the extensive efforts to control the species in Connecticut waters where they are native; the amount of money necessary for the same level of control in an areas where they are invasive is astronomical.

Crepidula snails; photo by Catalina Martin-Chico for the NYTimes

Pile of clams, oysters, and slipper snails; Catalina Martin-Chico NYTimes

If you read the article, you will recognize the mind-numbing process of separating the marketable clams and oysters from the nuisance slipper snails. You will also understand that the populations of snails are continuing to increase even with fishermen's desperate efforts to remove them from the oyster grounds. Disposing of the Crepidula imposes large costs to the industry so Pierrick Clament, a French businessman, asked an obvious question, "Would people eat it?"

Every time I hear of a new invasive or uncontrolled species that, because of human interactions with the sea, have become a nuisance and economic drain, I ask that very question: "Is the species edible, and would people eat it?" ...The slipper snail, uncontrollable algaes, jellyfish, sea urchins of the barren Caribbean, Humboldt squid... for the most part, these species are all edible and do have essential nutritional value. Then why shouldn't we harvest these species to lessen pressure on depleting fish stocks? Especially if there is money to be made in a new industry?

I applaud the entrepreneur and hope that his vision helps restore French coastal waters by removing the invasive slipper snails. I hope he makes money, I hope the coastal habitat benefits, and I hope that the new business decreases demand for other native species while improving the local economy. Win, win, win, win. Let's all expand our taste buds a bit and eat sustainable foods. Let this new slipper snail industry and the Floridian invasive lionfish recipes lead the way! I'm up for trying anything. Jellyfish sandwhich and popcorn snails anyone?